Consumer Guide to Elective Surgery and Procedures

Thank you for recognizing your pet may need to undergo an elective procedure such as spay or neutering. Many people “shop around” for the best price on this surgery, without the knowledge of why the cost varies among veterinary practices.  Some places feel much pressure to lower their surgical fees to remain competitive and attract clients . Unfortunately, in some cases this may compel hospitals to cut corners on their standard of care to reduce their costs. This guide was put together to help you find the best fit between the veterinary practice and your expectations for the care of your pet. I recommend you ask for the details and a hospital tour before booking elective surgery and procedures for your pet.

1. What pre-anesthesia evaluation will my pet have prior to surgery?

This is important for a number of reasons. A physical examination is our first defense against performing surgery on an animal that may have an infectious disease, a heart murmur, or be debilitated from parasites. A pre-anesthesia blood test can detect hidden problems that could cause serious complications when the pet is under anesthesia or in surgery.

2. What safety precautions will be taken with my pet during surgery?

While most surgery is uneventful, emergencies sometimes arise. Early detection of impending problems greatly aids our ability to intervene and correct the problem. An IV catheter will be placed prior to anesthesia induction. The IV catheter is our port for providing emergency drugs if there is an emergency. Having a catheter preplaced is one of the most important procedures for safety. IV fluids will be administered to help maintain blood pressure, provide internal organ support and to help keep your pet from becoming dehydrated.  The most common anaesthetic complication is low blood pressure.  If an IV catheter is not pre-placed prior to starting anaesthesia, a low blood pressure event can cause the collapse of peripheral veins making attempts to then place an IV catheter very challenging or impossible.  Using an IV pump to ensure accurate, safe administration of IV fluids is an important, yet increased cost.

A breathing tube should be placed (intubation) on all anesthetized animals. This keeps the airway open and allows for supplemental oxygen or gas anesthesia as needed. This tube is also very important to prevent aspiration into the lungs if a pet vomits or otherwise has excess fluids/materials in its mouth. If there is an aspiration, this causes a serious pneumonia.

A respiratory monitor and heart monitor allows the surgical team to keep track of heart rate and rhythm as well as the amount of oxygen in the blood. And a blood pressure monitor allows for early detection of blood pressure fluxuations and rapid treatment.

3. What safety precautions and comfort measures will be taken?

Anesthesia and surgery patients lose body heat through anesthesia and the opening of body cavities. Warmth should be provided during and after anesthesia. When a patient gets cold they become uncomfortable and the heart can be affected. Patient temperature should be monitored at regular intervals after surgery and supplemental heating provided as needed. Ideally, surgical table warmers help patients to maintain their body temperature during surgery. Your pet’s gum color, pulse, and respiration should also be monitored.

4. How will pain be controlled for my pet?

This is very important – surgery hurts! The anesthetic will not provide pain control once the pet wakes up. Pain should be controlled before, during and after the day of surgery.   The argument that “pain is good” to prevent animals from being over-active during healing is misguided and results in pets suffering pain needlessly.

5. Will I receive written post-surgical care instructions for my pet?

Aftercare of surgical patients is very important for proper healing. The hospital should provide written discharge instructions for your pet. There is much to know, too much to remember, and other family members not present at discharge may want to familiarize themselves with post-operative care instructions.

6. In what ways can the services be compromised to lower competitors prices?

There are so many ways that corners can be cut. Although your pet may survive the procedure, greater risks maybe taken. These risks are known to increase the chance of infection, pain, suffering and death. Since there are few laws that regulate these issues in Ontario, some veterinary hospitals cut corners to be able to offer the lowest price possible. We firmly believe that the clinics that cut corners are not adequately informing their clients of the risks involved. We believe owners should have choices and should not be disrespected if they cannot afford uncompromising care, but feel all pet owners should be informed that the lowest price probably means the lowest service. We have researched all the issues to develop our protocols. We believe our patients deserve uncompromising care.   The following is a list of the ways we provide uncompromised care.

          The facility

The patient should be prepared for surgery in a preparation area, not in the surgery room. This prevents hair and debris from possibly contaminating the surgery area.

It is expensive to have an area where only sterile surgeries are performed. So, if the surgery area is not a single use area infection rates are increased by increased traffic within the room. Performing surgeries or procedures that are not sterile surgeries, such as dental procedures, in the surgical suite increases infection rates.  Poorly maintained flooring, ceilings and or walls in the surgery room increases the infection rate as these can harbor debris, bacteria and viruses.

Preparation of the patient

The patient should be examined and have a pre-anesthesia screen. In most young healthy pets, this is a simple blood test. In pets that are a little older or have other issues discovered, a urinalysis or other tests might be recommended.

Once the pet is in the hospital on the morning of the procedure, medications should be used to relax the patient and start the pain management program. Again, forgoing this step leads to a much more nervous pet, which increases the release of epinephrine in the system and can actually lead to increased abnormal heart contractions. Of course, it is cheaper to delete this step.

As noted above, not placing an IV catheter, not starting IV fluids, no intubation, not monitoring for respiration and heart rate and rhythm all reduces the cost of the procedure but increases your pet’s risk.

Surgical instruments and supplies

Instruments used should be of high quality and well cared for. Using less than high quality instruments can lead to increased tissue trauma and increased pain and a longer healing time. The surgical pack of instruments should be used on only one pet, then cleaned, lubricated, repackaged and sterilized. Using instruments on more than one animal between cleanings and sterilization can lead to an increased chance of infection and infectious disease.

Surgical gloves are made to be disposed of after each surgery. In some hospitals, gloves are reused. The chance of microscopic holes in them drastically increases, leading to increased rates of infections and complications. Of course that is still better than in the places that are not using gloves at all, or are using non-sterile examination gloves for surgery.

The choice of suture material varies greatly. Suture selection involves determining what material to use. Some materials are not very strong, and cause increased inflammation within the tissues or the knots can even untie. These materials are very inexpensive. Better products have less reaction, with less pain and tissue trauma/inflammation caused, allowing faster healing and greater security.  Better products cost more and add to the cost of the surgery.  Some hospitals “reuse” suture material from one surgery, after it has been dragged through tissue, placed in cold sterile solution and then used again in a subsequent surgery.  It should go without saying that this protocol provides substandard, weakened, dulled, high infection potential suture material to patients to save money.

The Team

Providing the safest possible surgical experience requires a team of skilled individuals.  A compassionate, skilled, experienced surgeon is ideal.  While they are performing surgery your pet’s anaesthesia requires vigilant monitoring.  There are insufficient anaesthetists to staff general practices, so the education, training and certification of a Registered Veterinary Technician (RVT) includes fulfilling the skilled roll of anesthetist. An RVT can expertly assess the effects of anaesthesia, detect and respond to abnormalities, and provide emergency treatment.  They are also experts are detecting the subtle indication of a pet experiencing pain. Employing RVTs can be costly for a clinic but their presence during your pet’s anaesthesia is invaluable and should not be replaced by an “assistant” or receptionist.

The recovery phase of an anaesthesia is very important.  As the breathing tube is removed close monitoring is important to ensure continued unobstructed breathing.  As the anaesthetic wears off we need to be ever vigilant but signs of discomfort, nausea, disorientation, pain and cold.  Typically at this time the surgeon is back into their next surgery; having sufficient skilled staff (RVTs) to provide close monitoring of both current surgeries and pets in their recovery stages should not be compromised.  Often this is where “High volume Spay-Neuter Clinics” may fail.  They are processing so many surgeries in a short amount of time, they rarely have sufficient RVTs to provide one-on-one monitoring during both anaesthesia and recovery stages.

The Hospitalization

Our pets cannot hit the “call button” to tell us what they need.  So we are charged with the responsibility of providing for all their needs without being asked. So we provide multi-level pain control (pre-operative, intra-operative and post-operative), we use a combination of anti-inflammatory and narcotic pain medications to ensure our patient’s comfort.  Have you ever slept on a hard floor, or just been offered a thin, thread-bare towel for comfort?  Ensuring our patients have comfortable bedding protects them from injury, helps keep them warm, and allows them a comfortable sleep.  IV fluids are crucial during anaesthesia but will make patients have to urinate afterwards, ensuring that cats always access to a litter box and dogs given an opportunity to relieve themselves outside once they feel up to walking, helps ensure they are comfortable during hospitalization.  Many studies have shown that anaesthesia can temporarily halt digestive function and the sooner a patient has a meal post-anaesthesia then the digestive disruptions can be minimized.  Offering patients a small meal within a few hours of waking is important.

 Conclusion

It may surprise you to hear that these cost cutting choices still occur at some places, and so it should.  If you are lucky this will be the only surgery your pet ever needs so getting it right is important.  Never be shy to ask some of these tough questions of your potential service provider – your pet will thank you!  Good service providers will welcome the opportunity to answer your questions.  We understand that cost is important because surgery is expensive, and we do our utmost to make it as affordable as possible for you without compromising our standard of care.  One final note – ask about extra fees!

*Does the cost of surgery include a pre-op exam for a new patient, or is that extra?

*Are you required to have your pet vaccinated prior to surgery? If yes, that may increase your costs.

*Are Intravenous fluids included, or is it an extra fee?

*Is a Pre-anaesthetic blood screen included, or is it extra?

*Is pain medication dispensed home included, or is it extra?

*If you don’t have a “No-Bite” or “Elizabethan collar” at home to prevent your pet licking at their incision, you may need one – what will that cost?

*If your pet needs to be examined by the veterinarian during healing, do you pay extra for that?

After asking these questions you may find that what appears to be the same service for less cost, actually adds up to the same cost, or more, then the next place.

Your veterinarian will determine the best vaccination protocol for your pet based on the above factors and the vaccination products that they have available. In most cases these decisions are based on revised vaccination guidelines published in 2006 (The American Association of Feline Practitioners Feline Vaccine Guideline: AAFP) and 2007 (The American Animal Hospital Association Canine Vaccine Guidelines: AAHA). These guidelines were established by a large group of world renowned Board Certified specialists in areas such as Immunology, Infectious Diseases, Epidemiology, Internal Medicine and more. A vast amount of research data, statistics, and other evidence was reviewed and critically analyzed by these groups to determine the most accurate and relevant vaccination guidelines for our pets. In response to this publication many of the vaccination companies worked to produce some new vaccination products, better suited to these new guidelines. They are used in conjunction with the most superior, preexisting products on the market. These vaccinations are currently available for use in North America. Now you and your veterinarian need to have a discussion about the factors relevant to your pet, and tailor the new guidelines to best meet your vaccination needs.

The AAHA and AAFP guidelines divide vaccinations into 2 groups – Core and Elective. Core vaccinations are those vaccines that every pet should receive, according to recommended protocols, regardless of their perceived risk. These core viruses are diseases that cause severe illness and often death. These viruses are under relative control in our community, but not eliminated. They will show up from time to time and we all hope it isn’t in our pet! This control can only be maintained if the majority of pets remain up to date on their vaccinations. It has been well demonstrated that as the percentage of the pet population that is vaccinated drops, these viruses resurge with vengeance. For dogs, Core Vaccinations include Rabies, Distemper, Adenovirus2/Hepatitis and Parvovirus. For cats they include Panleukopenia, Rhinotracheitis (Herpesvirus), Calicivirus and Rabies. Elective vaccinations are vaccines that your pet should receive if they have a reasonable risk of exposure to that virus. For Dogs, Elective vaccinations include Bordetella (Infectious Canine Cough), Parainfluenza, Leptospirosis, Lyme Disease, Canine Influenza and Western Diamondback Rattlesnake vaccine (thankfully not a risk in Canada!). For cats they include Feline Leukemia Virus, Chlamydia, Feline Bordetella, FIV and Virulent Systemic Calicivirus

So How Often Are Vaccinations Needed?

PUPPIES & KITTENS: While a pup or kitten nurses from their mother they receive life-saving antibodies through the milk, providing the mother has been appropriately vaccinated. These “maternal antibodies” help protect the babies during their first few weeks of life. Once they stop nursing these maternal antibody levels steadily fall to non-protective levels, leaving the youngster extremely susceptible to deadly viruses, typically by 8-12 weeks of age. Therefore it is very important that puppies and kittens start receiving vaccinations for core vaccines at 7 or 8 weeks of age (with the exception of Rabies which is not given until 12 or 16 weeks of age). Vaccines given any earlier are almost always ineffective as circulating “maternal antibodies” block the vaccination. For some individuals even the 8 week vaccination may be blocked, but there is no way to tell which need the 8 week vaccine and which do not, therefore they should all receive it. The vaccinations are then boostered at 12 and 16 weeks of age to stimulate the immune system to produce protective levels of antibodies. Elective vaccines may be started at any point during the core series, most require at least 1 booster 2-4 weeks later. A puppy or kitten will not have protective levels of antibodies until the entire series has been completed. Until completion youngsters should be kept close to home and avoid areas visited by other animals to prevent them from becoming ill.

ADULTS: All vaccinations should be repeated (or boostered) 1 year after the initial set. At this time your veterinarian will discuss with you if it is appropriate to start to introduce some core vaccines that will provide protection for up to 3 years in some cases. They will also discuss available elective vaccines to determine if your pet’s risk has changed since the previous year.Although a healthy immune system is perfectly capable of responding to multivalent vaccines (more than one vaccine given at the same time), many veterinarians will start to separate vaccine components (vaccine splitting) and rotate the years they are boostered. It is generally felt that by decreasing the vaccine load given at a single visit may further enhance the bodies’ response and, for some susceptible individuals, may decrease the risk of vaccine reaction.At these visits your pet will also receive a complete physical examination. Remember that our pets are aging more rapidly than us and the physical examination will often identify indicators of disease (ear infections, dental disease, cataracts/eye disease, heart or lung disease, skin/coat conditions, hormone disease, digestive disorders, masses, liver problems, musculoskeletal problems and weight concerns). Many things can change in a year, and early identification can often result in superior management or cure of these problems.

SENIORS: Yes, seniors need vaccinations too. Just like senior people, senior pets are usually at an increased risk and susceptibility to the type of infectious diseases we vaccinated against.

Vaccine Reactions

Just like ourselves, it is not unusual if a pet feels tired or has a poor appetite for a day or so after receiving vaccinations. This is NOT a reaction. True vaccination reactions are uncommon, but as with any medication, in people or pets, occasionally an individual may experience a reaction. Vaccine reactions can take different forms; intense itch, hives, swollen eyelids/muzzle, or vomiting/diarrhea. When a reaction occurs the symptoms usually develop within minutes or hours of receiving the vaccination. Although these reactions are typically minor, your pet should be examined by a veterinarian right away.In extraordinarily rare cases an individual could experience a serious or life threatening reaction. However, most veterinarians will pass their entire career without ever having a patient suffer a life threatening vaccine reaction, but they will see many pets suffer or die from viruses that could have been easily prevented by appropriate vaccination.

Titres

A titre is a blood test that measures the amount of antibodies produced by the immune system in response to vaccination. These measurements tell us if an individual has sufficient antibodies to fight off (prevent) a viral infection. Titre tests can be used to tell us if an individual requires a booster vaccination this year or if they are still protected by their antibodies. Sounds great! Why aren’t titre tests used more often you ask? There are a couple reasons: First, some vaccinations do not have a corresponding titre (ie. Adenovirus/Hepatitis, Rhinotracheitis) and therefore cannot be measured, Second, a specific titre test must be run for each vaccine component, Third, cost – each titre test costs anywhere from$60 – $300, multiplied by the number of vaccinations in question. Then you have to add the cost of the booster vaccination if the titre is low. That said, it is possible to use some of the less expensive titres to track immunity while simply vaccinating on schedule those that are costly or do not have available titre tests.

In summary, there are many different vaccination protocols because there are many different risk levels. If your veterinarian has not discussed your pet’s risk with you, ask them the next time you are in to review with you your pet’s vaccination protocol and risk level. They can let you know which vaccine products are available and make any necessary changes.

Please don’t be fooled – vaccinations are very important. We are all fortunate enough to live in a society with few life-threatening infectious diseases. The days of thousands of people sick or dying from Diphtheria, Polio, Mumps or Measles are events of generations long past thanks to the development and use of vaccinations. But these diseases are not gone, only 2 infectious diseases, Smallpox and Rinderpest, have been successfully eradicated by the use of vaccinations. The others simply don’t get a foothold in a society that maintains a certain level of vaccination of the people. You don’t have to look far, some third world countries, to see what life would be like without vaccinations. If we become lax about vaccinations, whether in pets or people, we will see the terrible diseases of the past return. So please do your part to keep the viruses at bay – Get your pet Vaccinated!

References
American Animal Hospital Association (AHAA) Canine Vaccine Guidelines – (revised 2007): the full text will be available at www.aahanet.org

American Association of Feline Practitioner (AAFP) Feline Vaccine Guidelines -2006; available at www.catvets.com

World Small Animal Veterinary Association’s Vaccine Guidelines – 2010; available at www.wsava.org

Article Prepared by: Dr. Claire Todd (Veterinarian)

Fonthill Animal Hospital

www.fonthillanimalhospital.com

Heat Stroke occurs when heat generated within the body exceeds the body’s ability to dissipate heat. Most people assess their pet’s ability to manage the hot weather by comparing their young, fit dog to themselves – if you are doing OK in the heat, so should your pet, right? WRONG!!! Your pet will start to generate heat the same as you, but their ability to dissipate heat is MUCH worse than you! This causes their internal body temperature to rise much faster than your own.

Why can’t they dissipate heat very well? For one – they wear a fur coat constantly! Our pets are unable to sweat (other than a small amount through the pads on their feet). Sweating captures heat from the body in the perspiration droplets, which are then evaporated from the skin, dissipating heat and helping to prevent over-heating. The more of your skin surface that sweats, the faster you cool. Pets can pant though, right? Sure – and panting helps to cool the body the same way sweating does. But let’s take a moment to consider the surface area of your dog’s tongue compared to the surface area of all your sweating skin. Now we start to understand how Rex’s core body temperature can start to skyrocket while you are still sipping your ice water and fanning yourself sitting next to him.

Now we can consider a few more factors that can worsen Rex’s over heating 10-fold. If any ONE of the following factors also apply to Rex, he may be in grave danger during a heat wave: Is Rex overweight? Is Rex a “short-nosed” (brachycephalic) breed? (these include breeds or mixes of pugs, Boxers, Bulldogs, Shih Tzus, Lhasa Apso – and many more). Is Rex being exercised? (walks, running or playing with other dogs). Does Rex always have access to water and shade? Is Rex older? Does Rex have even minor respiratory or heart disease?

Please take a moment to consider what actually is occurring in the body as Heat Stroke sets in. It is not “just getting too hot”. Your pet’s normal core body temperature is 38C-39.2C. As the ambient air temperature and humidity start to rise your pet begins to pant and drool in an effort to dissipate heat. The body then vasodilates; blood vessels expand trying to bring more blood to the skin surface to allow heat to dissipate via radiation & convection. Unfortunately this vasodilation also results in a drop in blood pressure. As blood pressure drops the body can no longer sustain heat dissipation through radiation & convection, and core body temperature starts to rise dramatically. Tissue damage inside the body starts to occur as the core body temperature rises over 41.5C (only 2 C above normal!). The tissue damage quickly results in gastrointestinal injury, kidney failure, brain swelling, coma, brain damage, liver and heart failure and then death. A core body temperature over 43.5C (only 4C above normal) for just a few minutes, can cause death.

What are the symptoms of heat stroke? The 1st signs are panting, drooling and an increased heart rate. We are very accustomed to our dogs panting and drooling, we rarely take notice of it. But if the weather is hot or humid – when your dog starts to pant and drool you should be taking active measures to get them cooled down. You may be observant enough to notice your pet’s gum colour is darker red than usual, but this will then change to pale, grey gums as their blood pressure drops. Next symptom – collapse! Wow – see how quickly that can sneak up on you? After collapse things get critical fast, you may see vomiting, diarrhea, bloody vomit, or bloody diarrhea, then they slip into unconsciousness.

What to do if you suspect heat stroke: When your dog starts to pant and drool, get them into air conditioning right away (even your car with the air conditioning running high!). If there is no air conditioning get them into the shade, make them calm down. Excited dogs may still want to play at this point, they might play right up until they collapse. You know better, force them to settle down. Offer water to drink. Apply a cool wet towel to their belly, or wet down their fur. If the panting and drooling subsides in a few minutes then retire to the air conditioning and avoid the outside. If the panting and drooling persist, or your pet is reluctant to stand up then you need to get them to a veterinarian right away. Do not dunk a collapsed pet in cold water as it may worsen their shock.

How to prevent Heat Stroke: Ensure your pet ALWAYS has access to water and shade; please keep your pets indoors ,in the air conditioning, during a Heat Wave; please NEVER take your pet out in the car during the hot weather – they would rather miss you during your errands than possibly die; never exercise your dog during the day in a Heat Wave; if your pet is a “short-nosed” breed, older, overweight or has breathing or heart concerns do not exercise them AT ALL during a heat wave and be very cautious during any warm weather.

I cannot stress enough how serious and how common Heat Stroke is. It occurs quickly and with little warning. It happens to the most loving and responsible pet owners – just like you! Be aware, be proactive! Any pet even suspected of having heat stroke to needs to be seen by a veterinarian immediately, they require aggressive intravenous fluid therapy, oxygen support, cooling, blood work and medications. If you are not near your veterinarian or they are not open, your pet can always receive potentially life-saving treatment, 24 hours a day, at the ***Niagara Veterinary Emergency Clinic; 3300 Merritville Hwy (near Brock University) 905 641-3185***.

Ticks, Ticks, Ticks!

Are you finding tick numbers on the rise? If you are, it’s not just your imagination. Over the last few years the Canadian tick population has been growing, resulting in people having to remove ticks from themselves and their pets more and more often. Although the data does not make any suggestions as to why they are multiplying, we can only hope that this may be a natural cycle similar to what is seen in some other insect populations, and with some luck the populations may diminish again in the next 5-10 years. Until then, here is some information you may find helpful when trying to combat ticks on your pets.

Ticks in General Ticks are most often found in areas of overgrown grass and weeds, and low brush. Most tick species employ an “ambush” technique whereby they climb to the tip of the grass/brush waiting for a potential new “host” to walk by, as soon as contact is made, the tick releases the vegetation and jumps aboard! Some tick species mate before the ambush and then the female jumps onboard looking for a blood meal before laying her eggs. But most species jump aboard looking for a date. They will roam around their new host (person, pet or wild animal) for a day or 2 looking to mate with another tick. After mating they search around for the best spot for a bite to eat and attach themselves for a blood meal. The male tick will eat sparingly, and will not engorge (or swell), but the female settles in for a big meal – after all, she has babies to feed! Some females will swell to 100x their pre-meal size before detaching and dropping off her host up to 10 days later. She will then digest her meal, grow her eggs and look around for a place to lay her eggs – 1000’s of them! Depending on the tick species a female may lay up to 6500 eggs at one time! It can take up to 2 years for those eggs to become adult ticks, but when they do there is an army of them.

Where to look for ticks? On pets ticks favour the ears (both sides of the ear flap or in the opening to the ear canal), the face, lips, armpits and toes. That said – you can find a tick anywhere of the body so look closely. On people ticks often favour areas with hair, or where there are gaps in clothing. If you are hiking in tick country; wear long sleeves and pants, tuck in your shirt and tuck pant legs into socks.

How tough is a tick? When a tick bites their saliva contains a chemical similar to a local anaesthetic. That’s why they can bury their head into the skin and you can’t feel that it’s there. But this feature is helpful when you are removing the tick as you can dig into the skin a bit to ensure you get the tick out AND her head, without your pet feeling too much discomfort. Don’t like to dig? – ask your vet if they have a “Tick Twister”, a handy little tool that looks like a miniature plastic crow bar, you slide it under the tick body and gently rotate popping the tick off. If you have ever tried to kill a tick and wondered why they are so hard to squish, you won’t be surprised to find that a distant evolutionary relative of the tick is the Horseshoe Crab! Hope to wait one out? Think again, a tick can live up to 2 years without taking a single blood meal.

Whose out there? In southwestern Ontario we are fortunate enough to only have to deal with 3 species of ticks, there are a total 9 species in North America. These are our three;

Dermacentor variablis: (The American Dog Tick) This is the most common tick you will encounter. Lighter brown in colour, it has a “double horseshoe” design behind its head when not engorged. It can be found from early spring to late fall but its peak season is May – July.

Ixodes scapularis: (Deer Tick or Black-Legged Tick) This tick is smaller and less common. It is darker brown and can often be identified by a black spot on its back when not engorged. This tick’s peak season is late summer and fall. The young male Ixodes may only be about 2mm in length – he’s small, so look closely! ***This is the tick that can transmit Lyme Disease (see later for more information).

Rhipicephalus sanguineus: (The Brown Dog Tick) This tick is dark brown and has a plain back. The tick is less common as it only feeds from dogs but can be found in areas that dogs frequent. This tick’s claim to fame is that it is the only tick species happy to infest indoor spaces. When the female drops off the dog she will lay eggs in the cracks on floors. The adults like to climb walls and can often be found behind artificial ceilings

.What is the deal with Lyme Disease? Lyme Disease is caused by a bacteria called Borrelia burgdorferi. This bacteria can only be found in some Deer Ticks/Black-legged ticks (Ixodes scapularis). It is transmitted from tick to person/animal while the tick is attached and taking a blood meal. For individuals that contract Lyme Disease the illness initially causes flu-like symptoms (fever, tiredness, loss of appetite), a rash and/or lameness. These symptoms may be mild or severe, they may resolve on their own or require treatment. Some individuals may seemly recover but then 2-5 months later developed other symptoms such as arthritis, chronic heart or nervous system problems or chronic skin changes.

Give me the good news! How worried do you need to be about Lyme Disease? Answer: not too worried – mostly… So let’s crunch the numbers together;

• Out of the 3 tick species in Southwestern on Ontario ONLY the Ixodes scapularis can transmit the B.burgdorferi bacteria that causes Lyme Disease
• The Public Health Agency of Canada (PHAC) carried out a tick study in the Niagara region in 2007. They collected and tested 745 Ixodes ticks from our back yards – only 6% of them were found to be carrying the bacteria capable of causing Lyme Disease. ***But they did find a higher concentration in ticks found in or near the Wainfleet Bog.
• If you or your pet is unlucky enough to be ambushed by one of these 6% of Ixodes ticks with B.burgdorferi, the tick generally needs to be attached for 24-48 hours before the bacteria has a chance to move into the host (you or your pet). So finding and removing ticks daily goes a long way to preventing the transmission of Lyme Disease.
• So let’s say one slipped through your thorough check over? You and your pet also have an immune system for defense. Most healthy immune systems will manufacture antibodies against the B. burgdorferi bacteria when it enters the body and fight it off. This antibody response will result in your pet showing a “Positive” results on a routine Lyme Disease blood test. That means your pet has been exposed to the Lyme Disease bacteria, but not necessarily infected by it.
• In 2007 Idexx Laboratories partnered with PHAC to study Lyme Disease in Ontario. They analyzed the results of 94, 928 blood samples from routine Lyme (4Dx) blood tests collected from dogs across Ontario. Only 0.58% of those samples were Positive (showing a past exposure to the Lyme Disease bacteria had occurred). Of that 0.58% of dogs a healthy immune system prevented Lyme Disease from developing in 95%. That means only 5% (or 27 individuals) of the 550 individuals that were exposed actually became ill.
• Feeling better yet? Here’s more good news… Idexx and the PHAC consider the above numbers to be an exaggeration of the true risk once you factor in the number of potential falsely positive tests, and once you remove all the dogs that were exposed to the Lyme Disease bacteria when they travelled outside Ontario, not from ticks inside Ontario.
• If you are still concerned about your dog’s risk for Lyme Disease – ask your veterinarian about the vaccination available for dogs to protect against Lyme Disease (not to prevent ticks!).

Where to avoid There are pockets of tick populations in Ontario that the Lyme Disease bacteria is found to be more prevalent in the Ixodes tick population (although still fairly low) – these are called “endemic areas”. These areas include: Point Pelee, Rondeau, Long Point, Turkey Point, Prince Edward County, and the 1000 Islands. We could see the Wainfleet Bog added to this list in the future.

How to Control Ticks (1)1. Avoid areas of overgrown grass and brush2. Wear protective clothing – socks, long pants, long sleeves3. Check thoroughly for ticks after potential exposure – removing a tick within 18-24 hours further reduces the risk of infection4. Remove ticks with tweezers or “Tick Twisters”. With tweezers – do not twist the body of the tick, instead grasp the head as close to the head/mouth as possible and pull as close to the skin as possible.5. Wash and disinfect the area with alcohol or antiseptic.6. Use a Tick Prevention Product on your pet**

Notes of Tick Prevention ProductsTicks are very hard to prevent and kill. There is no product available on the market with a 100% efficacy for tick prevention. While using any product you may still see ticks on your pet. There are no products available that can guarantee protection from Lyme Disease. There are an assortment of tick collars and sprays available on the market that can offer some tick protection, however most of these are toxic to cats. Many people dislike them as family members are frequently contacting the sprayed on chemical or the chemical on the pet’s collar.In Canada there are 2 other products available – generally preferred as they are much safer and the technology of their application locks the product into the waxy covering on the skin of your pet preventing it from being transferred onto people’s hands/faces etc

.Advantix (from Bayer) – not to be confused with Advantage or Advantage Multi (also from Bayer). This product helps protect your dog from fleas and ticks (but NOT Heartworm). It is applied to the skin on the back in a spot-on formulation, once a month. It is effective against all 3 common species of ticks in our area, although it is only about 85% effective against the Ixodes scapularis species. This product will kill ticks within 24 hours but if the tick is attached it may remain attached (but dead) until its mouth parts disintegrate and they fall off. **This product can be toxic when applied to cats, or if cats groom, or sleep with, treated dogs.

Revolution (from Pfizer) – Applied in a similar fashion to Advantix, once monthly. This product helps protect your pet from fleas, ticks, Sarcoptes mites (mange) and Heartworm disease. This is the only product that is also safe to use on cats for tick prevention. The down side of Revolution is the product can take up to 3 days to kill the tick depending on how fast the tick is feeding, and Revolution is only effective against the Dermacentor variablis (American Dog Tick) and the Rhipicephalus (brown Dog Tick) species.

Good luck with your Ticks and have a safe summer!

Article Prepared by: Dr. Claire Todd (Veterinarian)Fonthill Animal Hospital

References

(1) Canadian Guidelines for the Treatment of Parasites in Dogs and Cats .Canadian Parasitology Expert Panel for Companion Animals.Published March 2009.

(2) ACVIM Small Animal Consensus Statement on Lyme Disease inDogs: Diagnosis, Treatment, and PreventionMeryl P. Littman, Richard E. Goldstein, Mary A. Labato, Michael R. Lappin, and George E. Moore. Journal of Vet Internal Medicine 2006;20:422-434.

(3) Biology,Treatment,and Control of Flea and Tick Infestations. Byron L. Blagburn, BS, MS, PhDa,*,MichaelW. Dryden, DVM, PhDb. 2009

(4) Seroprevalence of Borrelia burgdorferi, Anaplasma phagocytophilum, Erliclia canis, and Dirofilaria immitis among Dogs in Canada. Alain Villeneuve, Jonas Goring, Lynne Marcotte, Sebastien Overelde. Canadian Veterinary Journal 2011;52:527-530.

***A special thanks to the Bayer and Pfizer Companies for assistance in accessing some if the above references.

Site for Reference http://www.hc-sc.gc.ca/hl-vs/iyh-vsv/diseases-maladies/lyme-eng.php#mi

Arthritis (Degenerative Joint Disease) in dogs is one of the most common reasons owners start to ask questions about humane euthanasia. They see their dog’s mobility declining, energy decreasing, perhaps even falling. Some dogs may hesitate going up or down stairs, some may play less, or become less sociable around other dogs. Some dogs appear stiff, while others limp, some just sleep more and a few become short-tempered at home. These could all be signs of joint disease. For large and giant breed dogs this can start as early as 5-7 years old. Hips, knees, elbows and shoulders are all commonly affected. The number 1 mistake made by owners is assuming that their dog’s decreased pep and spunk is “normal aging”, so they don’t seek assistance. Yet this is the BEST time to respond. Whether they are 7 or 17 years old, they all deserve to have pain alleviated – wouldn’t you? This is when our mature dog should receive a blood screen to ensure they don’t have an easily managed thyroid problem, and ensure their organ function is good.

Carrying excess body weight can cause joint breakdown years before it would occur in their lean body. So the earlier you can seriously address any weight concerns the better. Consider it adding years to their life! Our veterinary team has lots of resources to help you and your dog achieve your weight goals.

I often recommend that dogs who are “slowing down” try a 2 week trial of anti-inflammatory pain medication under the direction and supervision of a veterinarian. If their pep and spunk returns while on the medication then we know we have a treatable problem. If your dog has a good response to the medication then you can investigate many other options; glucosamine, chondrotin, green-lipped muscle supplements, Mobility diets, Cartrophen injections etc. We can provide you with lots of information on these options. Often combinations of these therapies and good weight loss can delay the need for daily anti-inflammatory medications for a long time. And when your senior dog starts to slow down again you can start them back on the anti-inflammatories and give them a new lease on life.

Altering exercise patterns can also be helpful, select exercises that increase their joint range of motion but decrease heavy impact on the joints. Flat ground walking or running, minimize jumping, fetch, frisbees etc. Swimming is a fantastic exercise for dogs with joint disease.

Cats can also suffer from joint disease as they age. . As you might imagine; the success rate of swim therapy in cats is quite low (and we’ve run out of human volunteers for the program!). Feline arthritis looks different then the canine picture. Cats tend to develop arthritis in their spine, neck, shoulders and elbows. These cats might still jump up but often pause before jumping down; they might have some difficulty getting into litter boxes with a wide rim resulting in “accidents” out of the box; it often becomes uncomfortable for them to crouch at the food and water bowl so they eat more frequently but for shorter amounts of time. Although more subtle to notice in our cats it is no less important to manage. It is just as important for your senior cat to have a blood screen as there are many other, very treatable, causes of altered routines in our cats. If suspected to have joint disease we can also offer our cats multiple options for relief: supplements, mobility diets, Cartrophen (off-label use), pain relief medications. Even simple adjustments like raising their bowls for them to easily eat & drink from standing, changing the litter box access, and placing “step stools” to help them get down from favourite perches.

As a caution, never self-treat your dog or cat with anti-inflammatories; ibuprofen can cause severe kidney disease, aspirin can cause stomach ulcers & vomiting, coated aspirin does not get a chance to be absorbed in our pet’s short intestinal tract, and acetaminophen(Tylenol) can be deadly to cats.

So next time you think to yourself that the years seem to be catching up with Buster or Chloe, think about giving us a call. Because growin’ old may not be for sissys, but it doesn’t have to be painful either!

Article Prepared by: Dr. Claire Todd (Veterinarian) Fonthill Animal Hospital

April Showers Bring May…. Bugs?

As the temperatures rise, the tree buds swell, and the grass starts to grow the insects start planning for a fun-filled summer of reproduction and feasting! Unfortunately, this is often at the expense of us and our pets (and my poor roses!). Mostly these insects are just an itchy nuisance but sometimes they can have life-threatening consequences. Such is the case for Heartworm disease in our dogs.

Here is a little science review. Heartworm disease is spread by mosquitoes. The mosquito draws up microscopic worm larvae when they bite an infected animal. The microscopic worm larvae is then injected into the muscle of the dog during a mosquito feed; then just as their name implies, the larvae makes its way into the bloodstream and sets up home in the pulmonary blood vessels as they enter the heart. Here they mature into worms nearly a foot long! The mature worm infestation gradually causes obstruction of blood flow through the heart resulting in congestive heart failure. Animals infected with heartworms will appear completely healthy until the eventual situation of congestive heart failure develops.

Why don’t people contract heartworm disease? Well, we do – sort of. We are bitten by the same mosquitoes carrying the larvae, but when the larvae enter our body, our immune system instantly recognizes them as a problem and eradicates them. Similarly, cats are much less likely to develop heartworm disease then dogs. But for reasons unknown the canine immune system permits the larvae to travel through their body and live. Other canine relatives such as foxes, coyotes, raccoons and wolves are equally at risk. Depending on the number of larvae injected, the time from infection to heart failure can range from months to years. So wild animals, or untreated dogs, may serve as a reservoir of infection to others for years before they succumb to the disease.

Unfortunately, 70% of all of Canada’s Heartworm cases are in southwestern Ontario. Common use of Heartworm preventions have managed to keep the prevalence of positive cases reasonably low, but the last 10 years has seen a 50% increase in the number of cases in this region. Partly the increased cases are due to the import of adoption dogs from the southeastern USA where the disease is extremely prevalent. Many of these dogs arrive infected by various strains of Heartworm. Some of these new strains are proving harder to prevent and treat then what we historically see in this region.

So how much risk is your dog at? Really it comes down to – “who is your neighbour?”. Heartworm cases appear to cluster, suggesting the likelihood of an animal infected with heartworm, living unnoticed within the cluster. This individual is the source of infection for the local mosquito population which then travel within a 5km radius, spreading the disease to others. So if the dogs and wildlife within a 5km radius of you are heartworm free, your dog is at a pretty low risk, no matter how many times a mosquito bites them. But if there is a dog or, say, a raccoon with heartworm disease living nearby, your dog is at a very high risk, just one mosquito bite may be all it takes.

Is Heartworm disease treatable? Yes – most of the time. Dogs that are symptom-free and are diagnosed with heartworm disease on routine screening tests can usually be successfully treated but treatment typically cost between $800-$1500. Dogs that are not diagnosed with the disease until they are showing symptoms (due to the heart failure) can sometimes be successfully treated, but complications are common and costs even higher. For these reasons most people prefer to use routine screening and prevention medications.

Although prevention medications have high efficacy rates, failures do occur; especially with the new strains of Heartworm up from the USA. So routine regular blood screening is still very important to ensure the safety of our dogs. There are numerous heartworm prevention medications available on the market, oral and topical, most are administered monthly by pet owners at home. They range in costs depending on the size of your dog and what other parasites a product may also prevent (ie. fleas, mites, ticks). All products have very impressive safety records. Call your veterinary office for specific details on products available, and don’t let the mosquito’s summer party plans ruin your pet’s summer!

Article Prepared by: Dr. Claire Todd (Veterinarian) Fonthill Animal Hospital

Please read this heartwarming story about one of Fonthill Animal Hospital’s very own patients!

Mercy, the Mercer County Weimaraner

John Lennon in his song Beautiful Boy-(Double Fantasy Album) sang “Life is what happens to you while you’re busy making other plans”. June 27, 2011, my beautiful boy Blazer Ch. Pewteredge Blaze of Glory NSD, TT, TDI, CGC had crossed to the Rainbow Bridge and I was in the most unimaginable place – for 3 days I was curled up in a ball, sobbing, cursing the sun for shining and the birds for singing, when from my perspective, the world had ended and everything should be plunged in the deepest darkness. I was a mess. My other animals were neglected, my family and friends concerned for my sanity, when I received a call for help from a rescue transport group (Open Arms Pound Rescue on the Ohio/Indiana border) to find a rescue and foster home for a severely starved and abused weimaraner who came to be known as Mercy, the Mercer County Weimaraner.

One look at those pictures, and I was busy asking my friends to chipin to Mercy’s Vet Care in memory of Blazer. Four days later, over $1400.00 had been raised with donations received from as far away as the Netherlands and Australia. NYS Weim Rescue volunteered to be Mercy’s sponsor and since I was down one dog, I naturally agreed to foster Mercy. My poor weim Zest was missing her big brother, was lethargic and I thought having another dog around would perk up her spirits.

Mercy had a long road to recovery before Open Arms would be able to transport her to Ontario. A walking skeleton, hairless, neglected, covered in sores and scars, miraculously she was heartworm negative and appeared not to have damage to her internal organs. Mercy was in good hands in Ohio, was gaining weight and was appreciative of the love and care given by her foster family.

And then Life happened again. I lost Zestie to cancer 5 weeks after Blazer had died on August 8th. My shoulders weren’t broad enough to handle this double tragedy. I needed an Angel of Mercy…….

Open Arms fast tracked Mercy’s spay and gastopexy and we picked our Angel up in Oakville on August 20, 2011. I have now joined the ranks of the group affectionately known as “foster failures”.

Mercy has integrated well into our family. She is best friends with our Siamese Cat Tommy, our neighbours GSP Zia, and has learned to leave the chickens and ducks alone. A little wary of strangers, especially hooded men, Mercy enjoys daily hikes and jogs in the surrounding hills and vineyards with the children and I. That skinny, formerly abused weimaraner is a food thief, a comic, a joy!

There are many ways we can help to save dogs lives. Consider volunteering to help transport dogs to their new homes; become a foster; contribute financially. Not only are you helping a dog in need, you just may be helping a human shoulder the load………. My angel of Mercy helps me every day.

Heather Fyfe
steelgreyweim@gmail.com

Visit Mercy, the Mercer County Weimaraner on Facebook

Let’s start with the kitties as cats hate to be considered second to dogs. The average number of cats euthanized EVERY YEAR, at EACH humane society across North America is a shocking 2500! The reason that 2500 cats are euthanized at most of these facilities annually is because there are not enough homes to adopt them. Male or female, if your cat goes outside and is not spayed/castrated they are likely contributing to this terrible statistic. But most people understand this, even if they didn’t know the true scale of the cat overpopulation problem. Unneutered (Tom) cats are also in the highest risk category for becoming infected with FIV or Feline Leukemia Virus. These viruses are contracted through fighting or breeding and are eventually deadly to most cats. Not to mention the frequent abscesses they develop from fighting with other cats. Castrated cats do not breed and are far less likely to fight, and as a result they are much healthier.

So your cat stays indoors, no problem right? Wrong. The males usually develop very pungent smelling urine and frequently start to spray urine inside the house. But the most serious problems develop in our female cats. Female cats start going into heat around 6 months of age, unlike dogs, a cat does not automatically come out of heat after a couple of weeks. In fact, they come out of heat after mating with a male. For this reason they are termed “induced ovulators”. Ah ha! Now you understand why that yowling cat in heat seems to carry on all summer long! So the indoor cat that is not spayed will experience chronically high hormone levels as they spend most of their life in heat. Some cats are very vocal when they are in heat, others are only part some of the time, and a few remain quiet; but ALL of them are experiencing excessive hormone levels associated with heat until they are spayed or become pregnant. These chronically high hormone levels create a high risk scenario for the development of mammary cancer, uterine and ovarian cancer, ovarian cysts, endometriosis and Pyometra. Not to mention the often cranky emotions that goes along with soaring hormones can make some of these kitties hard to get along with! So get them spayed/castrated and you will likely be saving their life!

Now to the patient pooches. In Canada, stray dogs can be a nuisance but thankfully we do not have a significant canine overpopulation problem. Most people who castrate their male dogs when they are young do so to help prevent behaviour problems. Castrated dogs tend to socialize better with other dogs, they display less “inappropriate” behaviour, they are less tempted to roam and display dominant aggressive behaviour to people less often. But there are very important medical reasons to castrate your dog too. A shocking 75% of intact male dogs will go on to develop some form of prostate or testicular disease in their life, necessitating castration to try to help treat them. These diseases include testicular cancer, prostate hyperplasia, prostatitis, and prostatic & testicular cysts. Sometimes it may be too late to castrate your dogs when these conditions are diagnosed. So consider having your dog castrated when they are younger and healthier, before these problems develop.

Last, but by no means least – our female dogs. Most often people spay their female dogs to prevent messy heat cycles, usually they are unaware they may also be saving their dog’s life with that decision. 25% of intact female dogs will develop a Pyometra before they are 10 years old. Pyometra is a uterine infection, but never to be underestimated. These infections usually develop when the cervix is closed; thereby trapping the bacteria and the copious amount of pus they produce, within the uterus. These bacteria notoriously produce severe toxins that are released into the blood stream. So with no ability to see the brewing infection, most owners do not realize their dog is ill until the circulating toxins cause the dog to become lethargic and have a decreased appetite. By this time the condition is very serious; the dog has become toxic and their pus-filled uterus threatens to rupture. These dogs require emergency surgery, and some will not survive despite all efforts. All this is preventable by spaying when young.

The story does not end there however; intact female dogs also fall into a high risk category for cancer. Dogs spayed before their 1st heat are 200 times less likely to develop mammary (breast) cancer than their intact counterparts. When spayed between their 1st and 2nd heat they are 12.5x less likely, and when spayed between their 2nd and 3rd heat they are 4x less likely to develop mammary cancer. Spaying also prevents ovarian cysts, endometriosis, ovarian and uterine cancer.

So before you decide not to spay/castrate, or procrastinate from the decision, make sure you consider all their health risks. Remember that early decisions often provide optimal protection for your pet. The Spay and Castration procedure is easily set up with a quick call to the veterinary clinic. They are home the same day, and then you never have to worry about it again!

Article Prepared by: Dr. Claire Todd (Veterinarian )Fonthill Animal Hospital

Christmas Caution

The children are nestled all snug in their beds, all bellies are full, the last of the guests have headed home and the crackling fire tempts you to finally put your feet up…but then you hear that unmistakable sound… Shadow is vomiting in the laundry room.

With all the chaos and novelty around the Christmas holiday season many pets find themselves ample opportunity to explore new objects and taste-test new goodies. Unfortunately, this often results in many pets becoming ill, some seriously, keeping us veterinarians hoping through December. Here are some helpful hints to keep you in front of the crackling fire and out of the veterinary hospital this Christmas!

1. Tempting but toxic: Seasonal plants such as Poinsettias, Holly Berries, mistletoe and Ivy can all make pets sick if they are chewed on or ingested so best to choose the imitation varieties.
2. Beautiful Ambience but fire hazard: Candles are a popular addition to seasonal decorations, but they are often an irresistible temptation to cats, or the victim of a wagging dog tail.
3. Timber! If you have a young cat and enjoy a Christmas Tree, be sure to anchor the tree to the wall, window frame or curtain rod. Young cats assume that Christmas trees are their personal play grounds.
4. Chocolate for People not pets: Most people are aware that chocolate can be toxic to our pets, but every Christmas dogs manage to sniff out what we don’t notice. Common mistakes include guests bringing wrapped gifts that contain chocolate or boxes left on low tables that suddenly become unsupervised. Bakers chocolate and dark chocolate are even more toxic than milk chocolate.
5. Pretty on the outside, dangerous on the inside! Cats find stringy, wiggly things irresistible, and Christmas presents an abundance of these items; tinsel, elastic bands, gift ribbon, string and threads etc. Cats start by playing with these items, but just one lick can result the item getting caught on the small barbs of a cat’s tongue. Unable to spit the string out, the cat continues to swallow until its all gone. Less than 12 inches of string/ribbon can result in knotting of the intestines that requires life saving surgery.
6. What’s Xylitol? Xylitol is a sugar alcohol used as a sweetener in many gums and candy. Xylitol can be quite toxic when ingested by our pets so be on the look out for it this season.
7. What’s in the Stocking? Christmas is often a time when dogs and cats are given special treats as gifts. However the digestive tract of pets becomes accustomed to their regular food and treats. Bones, rawhides and other consumable treats may cause diarrhea, vomiting or worse in pets not usually receiving these items. It is best to give toys, not edible treats to our pets for Christmas.
8. A “Bone” of contention: Although some dogs seemingly do fine when given bones to chew on, many are not so lucky. The marrow inside bones is a frequent cause of GI upset and pancreatitis. Bones are choking hazards, they can splinter and perforate the wall of the stomach, they can cause obstructions and get stuck in the mouth or around the jaw.
9. Turkey in the bowl: Many well-meaning, guilt-ridden pet owners want to share on Christmas Day. But the fat levels in turkey, gravy, trimmings frequently cause the Emergency waiting room to be full of pets with vomiting and diarrhea on Boxing Day. Not you, not this year!
10. On a final note, as the temperature drops, please remember that there are very few breeds of dogs that have a coat sufficiently thick to keep them warm in Canadian winters. When temperatures drop below -5C our dogs should be brought inside when they are not exercising. And should not be left outside overnight. Even Husky dogs – if they spend some of their time indoors, their coat does not thicken sufficiently to keep them warm when trying to sleep in our cold temperatures.

Merry Christmas and a Happy (and Healthy) New Year!

Tarzan is a nine year old, handsome, long hair white cat with a wonderful disposition and outgoing personality.

When his family noticed a change in his behaviour, they were immediately concerned.

Always a fastidious litterbox user, you can imagine their surprise when Tarzan squatted and urinated on the kitchen floor. Their surprise changed into worry when they saw blood in the urine. Tarzan was brought to the hospital for an examination and Dr. Todd obtained a urine sample.

The analysis of the urine revealed not only blood but excessive amounts of crystals prompting Dr. Todd to proceed with radiographs of Tarzan’s bladder.

Much to everyone’s surprise, Tarzan had 30 to 50 bladder stones of various sizes.

Tarzan was admitted to the hospital and immediately scheduled for surgery. During his stay, Tarzan was an exceptional patient and made fast friends with all of the staff. Dr. Todd performed Tarzan’s surgery and all the bladder stones where successfully removed. Tarzan recovered very well and was discharged from the hospital on a prescription urinary diet.

The bladder stones were sent to a specialist for analysis where it was determined that the stones were Struvite, which is good news for Tarzan. Although genetics clearly make him more prone to forming this type of stone, special diets are available which are very successful at preventing further bladder stones from forming.

There are 6 types of bladder stones with struvite and calcium oxalate stones being the most common.

Several factors contribute to the formation of urinary stones, including:

• Urine pH
• Genetics
• Urinary tract infections
• Diet

Although Tarzan’s case may seem exceptional, urinary disease in cats is common. General indications that there may be problems with your cat’s urinary system include

• Frequent trips to the litterbox
• Small amounts of urine or no urine
• Urinating around the house
• Straining and crying in the litterbox
• Frequent licking of genitalia
• Blood in urine (hematuria)

Bladder stones is only one possible cause of any of the above symptoms. Other possible diagnosis include bladder infections, Feline idiopathic Cystitis or Urinary Obstruction. Should any of these symptoms occur, an immediate examination and work up by your veterinarian is recommended. In the case of a Urinary Obstruction (blockage) the condition can become severe and potentially deadly within 24-48 hours, so it is important to seek veterinary attention right away.

Tarzan is doing exceptionally well at home and is enjoying his new diet.